China Lake Mountain Rescue Group
The Talus Pile October 2003 #129
Oct 20 Mon Meeting Myers, Rockwell, Bishop
Oct 24-26 Fri-Sun Red Rock Canyon, Nevada Roseman
Nov 1-2 Sat-Sun Lone Pine Peak Bishop
Nov 5 Wed First Aid Topic A First Aid Committee
Nov 7-9 Fri Sun Broken Finger Rockwell
Nov 12 Wed First Aid Topic A First Aid Committee
Nov. 13 Thu Night tracking Breitenstein
Nov 15-16 Sat-Sun OPEN
Nov 17 Mon Meeting Botham, Riendaeu, Miles
Nov 19 Wed First Aid Topic A First Aid Committee
Nov 21-23 Fri-Sun Charleston/Red Rocks? Huey
Nov 25 Tue CPR First Aid Committee
Nov 27-30 Thu-Sun Thanksgiving (OPEN)
Dec 3 Wed First Aid Topic A First Aid Committee
Dec 5-7 Fri-Sun OPEN
Dec 8 Mon Meeting Breitenstein, Green, Castro
Dec 10 Wed CPR First Aid Committee
Dec 13-14 Sat-Sun Pyramid Myers
Dec 17 Wed Christmas party Westbrook
Dec 19-21 Fri-Sun OPEN
Dec 27-28 Sat-Sun OPEN
Jan 1-4 Thu-Sun Russell Rockwell
Jan 10-11 Sat-Sun Manley Doerr
Jan 12 Mon Meeting (avalanche transceivers) Rockwell, Renta, Myers
Jan 14 Wed Avalanche transceiver practice Training Committee
Jan 16-18 Fri-Sun OPEN
Jan 24-25 Sat-Sun Thimble to Corkscrew Huey
Jan 30-Feb 1 Fri-Sat Piute Pass peaks Rockwell
Feb 7-8 Sat-Sun Workshop - Base Camp, Search Techniques, etc. Breitenstein
Feb 9 Mon Meeting (snow shelters) Sakai, Huey, DeRuiter
Feb 13-16 Fri-Mon Tyndall Myers
Feb 21-22 Sat-Sun Winter mountaineering skills TC
Feb 27-29 Fri- Sun Aggie Bishop
2003-02 4-6 Jul 03 Search Tehachapi/Black Mountain/Kern
County Linda Finco
We received a page from Cdr. Rocky Lacertoso at 1745 on Thursday, 3 July. The sheriff was requesting our assistance in a search south of Black Mountain in the Tehachapi area for a missing paraglider. The sheriff said the weather had been hot and the search area was thick with brush. Sgt. Mike Kirkland would run the search on Friday, and they were requesting as many members as possible. They wanted us at base at 0700.
Carol Burge coordinated the callout. Mike Myers, Tom Roseman, Tom Sakai, Al Green, Bud Gates, Eric Toler, Werner Hueber, Walter Runkle, Dan Bishop, and I all committed to the search. We met at the hut at 0500 Friday morning, and we arrived at base camp via the town of Keene by 0700.
More detail was given on our subject. We were looking for 46-year-old Ronald Rosepink, a Lt. Col. in the Air Force Reserve at Edwards Air Force Base. Ronald was last seen on Saturday, 28 June, when he set out to paraglide for the day. Ronald had other plans for the weekend, so he was not reported missing until late Tuesday. Ronald was seen by another paraglider in the area on Saturday, but the second paraglider decided he did not like the wind conditions for launching that day. Eyewitnesses saw Ronald's 30-foot blue-with-pink-trim canopy in the sky at various points above the ridge from where he launched. No witnesses saw the paraglider in any trouble, crash, or descend below the ridgeline in any given direction to isolate the search area better. Ronald was wearing a black jumpsuit and had a black or purple pack to store his paraglider. Ronald also had basic survival gear with him. Normally, a paraglider would park in the vicinity where Ronald parked, hike up to the launch point, launch and fly, land near the launch area, and hike back to his car. On occasion, a paraglider can be carried by turbulent winds over the ridge and crash on the brushier, steeper northern slopes. Ronald once crashed in that area and hiked for four hours to return to his vehicle.
We split into two three-man teams (Teams 8 and 10) and two two-man teams (Teams 9 and 11). Each team was given a Rino (a two-way radio and GPS system), which would be used to track our positions as we searched. We were assigned a steep, brushy area on the north side of the launching area. Our starting points were marked with flagging, and we were also given the waypoint. We started our search assignment around 0900. The upper slopes were thick with brush, so our probability of detection (POD) for a non-responsive subject was low. About two hours into the descent, Team 10 (Myers, Roseman, and Gates) requested an evacuation for medical assistance. Gates was descending through boulders when a large rock fell on his hand, smashing three fingers and slicing one finger down to the bone. It appeared stitches would be required, and the steepness of the slopes required the use of two good hands, so it was decided it would be better to get Gates out of the field. A landing zone (LZ) was located, and the sheriff's helicopter was able to pick Gates up. Teams 8, 9, and 11 continued down the slope in our search area, while Team 10 worked back up the brushier slope to cover an area between Teams 9 and 10 that was not searched on the initial descent. Large portions of our search area were thick with brush (we all thought a machete would have been nice), and nettles were thick in the lower drainages. As we descended we found lots of cattle and the remnants of a blue Mylar balloon but no clues to Ronald. We ascended to our pick-up point and arrived back at base at 1430. We were released at 1600, and we arrived back in Ridgecrest at 1800.
Additional assistance had been requested for Saturday. Sheila Rockwell coordinated a second callout for people on Saturday. We had been told of a shorter route to get to base via Mountain Road from Tehachapi. This route saved about 20 minutes of driving time.
Saturday, we had Myers, Roseman, Sakai, Toler, Finco, Debbie
Breitenstein, and Dennis Burge. Again we met at the hut at 0500.
We stopped at McDonald's in Tehachapi and arrived at base at
0650. The search was led by Sgt. Jack Rutledge and Sgt. John
Diederich. We were split into one five-man team and one two-man
team. The five-man team searched along with volunteers from the
Air Force down a south-facing slope near the launch point. Base
wanted to increase the POD for the area. The slope was steeper
than the previous day but with a lot less brush (although the
grass was 3 to 5 feet high in places), and the density of the
brush was not so thick, so we felt coverage was quite high. The
two-man team was assigned an area on the northern slopes along
with other search teams. We finished our first assignment around
1100 and were transported back to base. We were given a second
assignment to search northern slopes at the outer boundary of
the search area. The top of the slope was steep and brushy, but
it opened up quickly with less brush. With the more open slopes,
we could more easily scan the area with binoculars and search
around the base of the brush and trees looking for clues. We
again ascended to our pick-up point and arrived back at base around
1630. Dinner was ready when we arrived--steak, salads, beans,
We were debriefed and released at 1800. During the debrief, the sheriff pointed out that the Civil Air Patrol and Kern County Sheriff's helicopter had been doing an extensive air search of the area as far south as Rosamond and as far north as Red Rock Canyon. A few sightings were called in and checked out, but all turned out to be false sightings (blue tarps, covers, etc). We arrived back in Ridgecrest at 2000.
Additional assistance had been requested for Sunday, so Carol Burge coordinated a third callout. Sunday, we had Roseman, Myers, Bishop, and Mike Franklin. The group met at Crest Donuts at 0500 and arrived at base camp around 0650 (again with a stop at McDonald's). Cdr. Lacertoso, Sgt. Kirkland, and Sgt. Diederich coordinated the search on Sunday. We were split into two two-man teams. One team was assigned with other teams to search a south-facing slope ending at the Bear Valley Police Station. Again the idea was to increase the POD of the area. The other team was assigned a north-facing slope farther to the east. In the afternoon, the teams were assigned to search the rocky slopes around Black Mountain. This area had been searched extensively from the air, but no ground teams had been placed in the area. The terrain was very rugged with deep ravines, so it took a while to work down to the pick-up point. Teams returned to base around 1830 after their assignments were completed. No clues were found on Sunday, but two air scent dogs did make a hit in the same general vicinity, and the sheriff was going to check that area. We arrived back in Ridgecrest at 2100. No additional resources have been requested.
I'll tell you what it's like to be No. 1. I compare it
to climbing Mount Everest. It's very difficult. Lives are lost
along the way. You struggle and struggle, and finally you get
up there. And guess what there is once you get up there. Snow
--David Merrick, Broadway producer
SUMMARY OF PAST TRIPS
Date Location Participants Notes
14 Mar Great Falls Basin Hinman, Runkle, Hueber. Psycho Killer Pillar, 5.8, 2 pitches, Frosted Flakes, 5.10a, 2 pitches.
14-16 Mar Corkscrew Rockwell, Sakai. Class 1 climb in summer. Non-threatening snowshoe winter trip.
23 Mar Alabama Hills Hinman, Runkle, Hueber, Green. Eight 1-pitch sport climbs, 5.6 - 5.10b.
28-30 Mar Red Rock Canyon, NV Roseman, Hinman. Good weather, good climb.
28-30 Mar Desert Peak Finco.
29 Mar Thimble to Corkscrew Traverse Rockwell, Green, guests Chuck & Sue Farris. Leisurely climb of Thimble. Should have left car at Corkscrew. Took 5 hours to get back to car. 11_ hour day.
6 Apr Sawtooth Sakai.
11 Apr Alabama Hills Hinman, Runkle, Hueber, Green. Nine 1-pitch sport climbs, 5.6 5.10b.
19 Apr Big Rock Hinman, Hueber. Six climbs, 5.5- 5.10a, 7 pitches.
20 Apr Owens Rockwell, Myers, guests Chuck & Sue Faris, Bob Joy.
23 Apr Candlelight Rockwell, Sakai, Roseman, Bishop. From Bighorn Park. Snow runs out just below top.
26-27 Apr Whitney Huey Solo.
27 Apr Owens Ridge Hinman, Runkle, Gates. Dihedral, 5.9, 2 pitches, Triplet, 5.8, 3 pitches.
2 May Five Fingers Huey and Sakai.
4 May. Owens Rockwell, Sakai, Huey, guest Chuck Faris.
4 May Fossil Falls Hinman, Roseman Two aid climbs, A2, 4 pitches.
9-11 May Whitney Trail Rockwell, Sakai, guest Daniel Krasner. Great weather, lots of snow.
9-11 May Tahquitz Hueber, Roseman, Runkle, Breitenstein, Green, Burge, and Hinman.
14-16 Jun Peak 13520 and Bolton Brown Hinman, Rockwell, guest John Ellsworth. Intention was to do Thumb and 13520. Went over south fork pass on Sunday. Still lots of consolidated snow, some 3rd class. After peak 13520, decided to do Bolton Brown. John's PocketRocket (MSR) stove didn't work with Bob's Coleman's canister. Recommend purchasing fuel of same brand of stove.
20 Jun Cirque Finco, C. Burge, Breitenstein.
20-22 Jun Williamson from Shepherd Pass Bishop, Huey, 2 guests. Made Williamson; came out 3rd day.
24 Jun Gould Rockwell, Runkle.
White Mountain traverse Schafhauser, guest Eve. Little bit of 3rd class. White, DuBois, Boundary, Montgomery. Twisted ankle.
Moon Goddess Arete Franklin.
28-29 Jun Thor and Russell Rockwell, Sakai, guests Daniel Krasner, Richard Piotrowski, Len and Sarah Lochmiller.
4-6 Jul Palisades from West Side Huey, guest Jim Vijay. No summits.
4 July: Over Bishop Pass (3 1/4 hrs) and cross-country to Thunderbolt Pass at 12,300. 4000-foot gain.
5 July: 2440-foot gain to near top of Polemonium.
6 July: Went up 3rd class chute toward Thunderbolt for 600 feet but turned around since a rope would have been prudent for one move.
12 Jul Dragon Myers, Finco, Rockwell, and 8 students.
12 Jul Trail and Cirque Breitenstein, Renta, Botham, Green, C. Burge, and 11 students.
13 Jul Thor Sakai, Franklin, 1 other member, and 6 students.
17-20 Jul Taboose Pass Huey, Rockwell, guests John Ellsworth and Jim Vijay. In on Thursday. All climbed Ickes on Friday. Ellsworth climbed Arrow, and Rockwell, Huey, and Vijay climbed Vennacher on Saturday. All climbed Peak 12851 at Taboose Pass on the way out Sunday.
19 Jul North Arête of Bear Creek Spire Runkle, Franklin. Hiked in on Friday and bivied at a spot just above Dade Lake. Next morning, we got up at 0400 and were climbing by 0615. Mike led 1st pitch all odd pitches after that since we swung lead. Made it to the summit in 6 hours. Rate pitches as 5.8, 5.7, 5.4, 4th, 5.8, 5.4 (4th?), 5.7, 4th, 4th, 5.6. Crux of climb was 5.8 off width chimney on 5th pitch.
Hiked out on Saturday
26-27 Jul Summer class overnights Roseman: Independence and University. Mike, Tom.
Finco: Morgan. Linda, Mike, Al, Carol, and 5 students. Robinson Lake is not in national park area, and you don't need a permit.
John Muir Trail Myers and his 2 sons. Son had new inserts for shoes and bailed out at Red's Meadow
28 Aug Candlelight Green, DeRuiter.
Lover's Leap in Tahoe Hueber, Roseman.
Whitney & Muir Huey. Led trip for MWR
3 Aug Whitney North Fork Hinman.
9-18 Aug Wyoming, Montana Huey: Started with 9; ended with 3. D. Burge, Gates, Frank Buffum. Got in several days of Wyoming trip.
14-18 Aug Cottonwood Pass Hinman.
23-24 Aug Heller Roseman. No permit, no one took it. Hinman & Bishop went up Russell.
29 Sep-1 Aug Tuolumne Finco. Lots of fun. Friday and Saturday were beautiful.
6 Sep Candlelight Myers, Green, Miles, Runkle. Day trip
7 Sep Thor Rockwell, guest Chuck Farris. Started from Lower Boy Scout Lake as if doing the Secret Route, but before traversing east to sandy saddle, kept on going straight up and exited onto the plateau about 300 feet higher. Avoided long loose traverse east because it stays on larger, more solid talus almost all the way. Went all the way up to the summit plateau, and it was fine except for some loose sand the last 150 feet. Steve Caldwell (a week earlier) had turned left a little lower onto some class 3. Followed that to the summit plateau. It's probably a better route.
I'm not into working out. My philosophy: no pain, no pain.
After 24 years of service at China Lake, long-time member and
leader Daryl Hinman has been
selected as an Associate Fellow in NAVAIR's Fellows Program.
Associate Fellow is the first tier in the three-tiered program
and represents the top three percent of the command's scientists
and engineers. Newly selected Weapons Division's Associate Fellows
were inducted on May 22 at 2:00 p.m. in Room 1000D of Michelson
Daryl's expertise is Signal Processing Algorithms for Imaging Trackers. He works for the Weapons/Targets Department.
New USATF hydration guidelines
Saturday, April 19, 2003
USATF announces major change in hydration guidelines for long-distance runners
BOSTON - USA Track & Field (USATF) on Saturday unveiled new fluid-replacement guidelines for long-distance runners and a major new initiative to educate the distance-running public about how to properly hydrate.
For athletes in general and especially for those completing a marathon in more than four hours, USATF recommends consuming 100 percent of fluids lost due to sweat while racing. This marks a significant change from the understanding most runners have that they should be drinking as much as possible and following the guideline to "stay ahead of your thirst," which has been held as the standard recommendation for many years.
Simply put, runners should be sensitive to the onset of thirst as the signal to drink, rather than staying ahead of thirst. Being guided by their thirst, runners prevent dehydration while also lowering the risk of hyponatremia (low sodium), a potentially dangerous condition increasingly seen as runners have erroneously been instructed to over-hydrate.
Announced by USATF in advance of the 2003 Boston Marathon, the new guidelines mark a significant shift in standard recommendations for fluid replacement. They reflect changes in scientific thinking as well as changes in the average finishing times of marathon fields.
"The 'new running boom' has seen more mid-pack and back-of-the-pack runners taking up marathoning," USATF CEO Craig Masback said. "The United States now has 30 million adult runners, a growth that has been tremendous for the sport and the overall health of Americans. As the national governing body for long distance running, we consider it vital that we play a key role in educating athletes of all levels, from the four-hour-plus marathoner to our Olympians."
Replacing fluids and sodium
A potentially fatal condition, hyponatremia most often occurs in exercise lasting four hours or longer and results primarily from consuming excessive fluids and is exacerbated by not replacing sodium losses. Severe cases may involve grand mal seizures, increased intra-cranial pressure, pulmonary edema (fluid in the lungs), respiratory arrest, and even death.
In USATF's new hydration guidelines, long-distance runners are instructed to consume 1 liter of fluid for every liter lost during a race--a 1:1 ratio. Runners can determine their rate of sweat loss weeks before a race by using the USATF Self-Testing Program for Optimal Hydration as described on www.usatf.org.
Following this self-determined hydration strategy minimizes risks associated with both dehydration and over-hydration.
Athletes who have not yet had the opportunity to perform self-testing should begin their races well-hydrated--indicated by clear urine--and then drink when thirsty during their races, rather than drinking constantly as some have recommended. A sports drink with sodium and other electrolytes is preferred.
Runners lose not only water but significant amounts of sodium and other minerals while sweating during the course of a marathon. Recommendations of 150 percent fluid replacement or more could result in runners consuming large quantities of water during their races causing a drop in overall sodium levels and, potentially, hyponatremia.
While proper hydration is critical for all runners competing
in long distance races, those who are on the course for an extended
period of time have a greater risk of dehydration or of overhydration,
which increases the risk of hyponatremia. This risk demands that
runners know how much their bodies need in racing conditions.
Many scientists now view hyponatremia as just as much of a threat to runners as heat illness and dehydration, and major papers distributed by the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF) and USATF have described these potential problems and how to avoid them. (These papers are available on www.usatf.org.)
USATF this weekend is issuing a call to action to energize its organizational infrastructure in a public-education push on the topic of fluid replacement and hyponatremia. USATF's 56 associations and 2,500 local clubs--which serve all 50 states and 80,000 USA Track & Field members--will be a starting point for distributing the recommendations on a grassroots level.
While many runners may choose to conduct their own self-testing, USATF will work with clubs and associations to set up clinics at which runners will do the one-hour runs under supervision to help them best determine their hydration needs.
Other medical issues
As runners have learned the importance of hydration during long distance events, dehydration has become a less prevalent condition. Medical crews at marathon finish lines now are dealing more with hyperthermia (heat illness), postural hypotension (pooling of blood in the legs), hyponatremia, and the normal injuries that are common among marathon runners such as blisters and muscle injuries.
Hyperthermia can occur regardless of hydration levels or the distance of a race. In fact, shorter races can pose more of a threat due to the faster pace per mile, which causes greater heat production. An adequately hydrated runner who is running too fast or pushing herself too hard, especially in hot and humid conditions, can fall victim to hyperthermia. It is therefore important that athletes adjust their pace to take into consideration race conditions, slowing their pace as heat and humidity rises regardless of how much they may be drinking.
"Postural hypotension" is experienced when a runner suddenly stops, most commonly at the finish line. With blood pooling in the legs, there is inadequate blood supply to the rest of the body, and the runner feels faint and can fall down. This had been thought of as demonstrating dehydration, so the response from medical teams was to rehydrate these runners. Now, medical personnel can identify this problem correctly and treat it specifically. Treatment requires raising the runner's feet above the head for 3-4 minutes for full recovery. Runners can avoid postural hypotension by keeping the legs moving--even with light walking or moderate knee flexing when they otherwise would stand still at or immediately after the finish or at other locations along the race course.
For more information
USATF's new guidelines, along with supporting documentation, are explained in two scientific advisories on the topic.
"Proper Hydration for Distance Running - Identifying Individual Fluid Needs," by Douglas Casa, Ph.D., ATC, FACSM, of the University of Connecticut, is issued by USA Track & Field.
"IMMDA-AIMS Advisory statement on guidelines for fluid replacement during marathon running," was written by Tim Noakes MBChB, MD, FACSM of the University of Cape Town, South Africa; and David E. Martin, Ph.D. FACSM, of Georgia State University. It was published in IAAF New Studies in Athletics, March 2002, pp. 15-24.
These two papers, including an explanation of the self-test, are now posted on the USATF Web site. www.usatf.org.
Bear kills Malibu pair in Alaska
By Rachel D'Oro
Editor: These are the first three paragraphs from an Associated Press story dated Sunday, October 5, 2003.
ANCHORAGE, Alaska - A self-taught bear expert who once called Alaska's brown bears harmless party animals was one of two people fatally mauled in a bear attack in Katmai National Park and Preserve--the first known bear killings in the 4.7-million-acre park. The bodies of Timothy Treadwell, 46, and Amie Huguenard, 37, both of Malibu, were found near Kaflia Bay on Monday when a pilot with Andrew Airways arrived to pick them up and take them to Kodiak, Alaska, state troopers said. The park is on the Alaska Peninsula. Treadwell, co-author of "Among Grizzlies: Living With Wild Bears in Alaska," spent more than a dozen summers living alone with Katmai bears and videotaping them. Information on Huguenard was not available.
The Andrew Airways pilot contacted troopers in Kodiak and the National Park Service in King Salmon after he saw a brown bear, possibly on top of a body, in the camp Monday afternoon. Park rangers encountered a large, aggressive male brown bear when they arrived at the campsite and killed it. Investigators then found human remains buried by a bear near the campsite, which was in a brushy area with poor visibility.
(Grizzly and brown bears are the same species, but brown is used to describe bears in coastal areas and grizzly for inland bears.)
Pricey perks for recruitment at colleges come under fire
By Greg Winter
Editor: These are the first two paragraphs from a New York Times story.
In the abstract, Kathy Anzivino believes there must be some pinnacle of amenities that universities simply cannot surpass, some outer limit so far beyond the hot tubs, waterfalls, and pool slides she offers at the University of Houston that even the most pampered students will never demand it and the most recruitment-crazed colleges will never consent to put it on their grounds. She just has a hard time picturing what that might be. "There's got to be one, but what it is, I don't know," said Anzivino, director of campus recreation at the university, which opened a $53 million wellness center this year.
Beyond its immense rotunda stands a five-story climbing wall that looks as though it was transported straight from Arches National Park, while boulders and palm trees frame the leisure pools outside. "Everyone says it looks like a resort," she said.
President Debbie Breitenstein 939-0716 email@example.com
Vice-president Paul DeRuiter 939-4517 firstname.lastname@example.org
Secretary Elaine Riendeau 939-6577 RiendeauEM@navair.navy.mil
Treasurer Dave Doerr 939-8077 email@example.com
MRA Representative Tom Sakai 375-7404 firstname.lastname@example.org
Qualifications Tom Sakai 375-7404 email@example.com
Qualifications Mike Myers 939-5995 firstname.lastname@example.org
Qualifications Tom Roseman 939-4812 email@example.com
Public Education Terry Mitchell 939-2252 firstname.lastname@example.org
Training Dave Miles 939-4260 MilesDL@navair.navy.mil
Equipment Al Green 375-9189 email@example.com
First Aid Ellen Schafhauser 375-4043 Tedauhshua@iwvisp.com
Sheriff's Office Tom Roseman 939-4812 firstname.lastname@example.org
ASTM Representative Dennis Burge 375-7967 email@example.com
Emergency Services Linda Finco 375-7951 firstname.lastname@example.org
Summer Class Mike Franklin 939-8790 email@example.com
Stores Carol Burge 446-7038 firstname.lastname@example.org
The Talus Pile Loren Castro 375-3279 email@example.com
CLMRG gratefully acknowledges recent gifts from the following
Edison International Employee Contributions Campaign
Combined Federal Campaign Donors
William Deemer Naomi Norris Cary Fujiwara
Belmont Frisbee Mary Smith Denise Ritchie
Renee Lesniak Lloyd Crabtree
United Way Donors
Nancy L. Moore
Check our web page at http://www.clmrg.org
All telephone numbers in The Talus Pile are area code 760 unless noted otherwise.
Treasurer Dave Doerr reports that newsletters from other rescue groups are in the Hut.
Second Annual Mountainfest
24-25 Oct 03
Last year, there were only about 200 in attendance, so it was easy to rub elbows and chat with the well-known names: Lynn Hill, Peter Croft, Allen Steck, Tom Hornbein, and Andy Selters.
This year, the presenters are Chris Bonington, Gordon Wiltsie, and Jack Tackle, and there are a couple of other things.
This year, the program is $75 ($65 through August), and Bishop motels are not expensive.